Glycolic acid or Mandelic acid: What's best for skin of colour?
Why is Chemical exfoliation important? Our skin naturally sheds dead skin cells continuously to reveal newer, healthier cells. However, as we age, this process slows down, resulting in dull and lacklustre skin.
Exfoliating acids, also known as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), work by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be sloughed off more easily.
AHA vs BHA
AHAs are water-soluble, which means they sit at the top of the skin and exfoliate the skin. They are great for acne scars, melasma, dull skin, sun damage, and texture, minimise the appearance of pores, help remove pigmentation and stimulate collagen. In addition, it also helps the penetration of other actives into the skin.
BHAs are fat-soluble, which means they penetrate the skin to unclog the pores. They are beneficial for treating and preventing acne, blackheads and whiteheads, and congested skin. They are safe for 12 years and over.
It is important to note that chemical acids can irritate your skin when not used in the correct percentages. Moreover, your skin becomes sensitive to UV rays if you are exfoliating, so it is of utmost importance to protect the skin by using a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 50.
The Importance of Choosing the Right Exfoliating Acid for skin of colour
When it comes to skin of colour (brown and darker skin tones), selecting the appropriate exfoliating acid becomes more crucial since the skin is different from Caucasian (white) skin, as it is drier, more sensitive and more prone to post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Below is a simple guide for you to understand the benefits of some of the popular chemical acids and their ideal percentages to use.
Mandelic Acid (AHA):
- Mandelic acid is a popular AHA derived from bitter almonds, known for its larger molecular size and gentle exfoliating properties.
- It is effective in treating fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, dark marks, and uneven skin texture without causing irritation or inflammation.
- Mandelic acid is considered safe for all skin types, including sensitive skin and skin of colour, making it a versatile option for exfoliation.
- 10% or less of mandelic acid is safe to use.
Lactic Acid (AHA):
- Lactic acid is a gentle AHA derived from milk, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
- Lactic acid is particularly beneficial for skin of colour, as it is hydrating, and helps with wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.
- 7% or less of lactic acid is safe to use.
- Use once a week.
In the Dr Vanita Rattan Exfoliate to Glow, we have added 5% Lactic acid and 5% Mandelic acid with humectants like glycerin and anti-inflammatories like centella asiatica extract. It gently exfoliates the skin, leaving it brighter, smoother and hydrated without irritating the skin. Use it once a week at nighttime.
Glycolic Acid (AHA):
- Derived from sugar cane, glycolic acid is one of the most potent AHAs available.
- It effectively exfoliates the skin, stimulates collagen production, and improves texture and tone. However, glycolic acid can be more irritating, especially for darker skin tones.
- The reason is glycolic acid has the smallest molecule of the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) family, so it gets deeper penetration which potentially burns the skin. So, it is our least favourite AHA and we would not recommend it for skin of colour.
- You can use concentrations of up to 5% but always perform a patch test before full application.
Salicylic Acid (BHA):
- As a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), salicylic acid is fat-soluble and anti-bacterial, making it particularly effective for treating acne and clogged pores.
- It penetrates deep into the pores to dissolve sebum and exfoliate dead skin cells, reducing the risk of breakouts.
- Salicylic acid is generally well-tolerated by most skin types, including skin of colour, and is less likely to cause irritation or hyperpigmentation.
- 2% salicylic acid is safe to use.
- If you have oily/acne-prone skin or you tend to get breakouts one week before your period, then this would be the best choice for you.
Dr V TRIO Blemish BHA Exfoliator is great for the improvement in the appearance of acne, red marks and brown marks. It helps control sebum & unclogs pores. It is formulated with 2% salicylic acid, salvia officinalis leaf extract and green tea extract, safe for skin of colour. Use it twice a day for great results.
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