From skin to joints: How collagen works its magic
Collagen is the most abundant protein in the body, it gives structural integrity to the skin and is surrounded by water to support, smooth and firm the skin. It is also the main building block protein that forms your bones, skin, hair, muscles, tendons, and ligaments.
The primary reason we tend to get superficial wrinkles is because of collagen loss. Collagen loss happens from your mid-20’s onwards; we lose approximately 1% every year.
Collagen loss usually accelerates later in life, with women losing about 30% in the first five years of menopause and 2% every year afterwards.
Collagen loss can happen for a number of reasons:
- Genetics and Intrinsic Ageing- some people are predisposed to lose collagen quicker.
- Smoking- reduces collagen production and can lead to premature wrinkles.
- Lack of essential nutrients in the diet- eating too much sugar and refined carbs can interfere with your collagen’s ability to repair itself.
- Free radical damage- which can happen most commonly from UV damage.
- Autoimmune disorders- some autoimmune disorders, like lupus, can damage collagen.
- Menopause- the ovaries begin to stop producing the hormone oestrogen, which causes collagen loss.
Oral collagen > Topical collagen
There is a lot of collagen on the market in different forms, so you need to know which ones are effective, and which ones to avoid. It’s divided into 2 categories- topical or oral.
Topical collagen is used as a humectant (a water magnet). It cannot penetrate the epidermis into the dermis to stimulate collagen. Essentially, it’s a bit of marketing gimmick when marketers say there’s a collagen cream- people believe this will actually stimulate their collagen; it won’t. It is literally just a peptide in a cream that’s acting as a humectant. The skin will look plumper, but that’s only because topical collagen is holding water in the epidermis, not because it’s stimulating more collagen.
Then there is oral. Ingested comes in 3 different types: capsules, gels, and powders. Capsules tend to only be about 1g, which is too low as most clinical studies are done in the 8g region. 1g won’t do much and isn’t worth your time.
Then you’ve got gels and powders. Both have good bioavailability, both are digested in the gut by peptidase enzymes and turned into amino acids. Those amino acids are absorbed by the gut into the bloodstream. They then trigger the fibroblasts (the cells producing collagen), to produce more collagen. I prefer Marine Collagen over Bovine Collagen due to its higher bioavailability.
By Dr Vanita Rattan, July 2024